ISLANDPORT PRESS

Fiddlehead Season!

The much too short fiddlehead season is upon us. If you picked up this local delicacy at the farmers' market or grocery store and need some cooking inspiration, Always in Season author Elise Richer provides some fantastic ideas from the book:

Some culinary types feel that fiddleheads get too much attention, given their unremarkable flavor. And there is a bit of intrigue about how to cook the ferns. Although no toxin has been found in the plants, people have reported stomach ailments after eating raw or lightly cooked fiddleheads. Thus, many recipes recommend a long cooking time––say, 20 minutes of boiling. That leaves you with a mushy green, which is sad, because the best part of the young ferns is their texture. When steamed for 10 minutes or so, they are somehow chewy, firm, and tender all at the same time.

There aren't too many ways to cook fiddleheads. Steaming them for 10 minutes is really the best way; then you can decide what to do with them next. Some ideas are listed below (to call them "recipes" would be stretching it.) Just don't pair them with anything too strongly flavored, since their own flavor is subtle. And you never want to cook them for too long. 

• Dress with butter or olive oil after cooking and serve as a side dish.
• Add vinegar or lemon juice and a handful of chives and serve as a salad.
• Put them, hot, over spinach for a wilted salad, or let them cool and toss them into a green salad.
• Substitute for asparagus in pasta or risotto dishes.
• Sauté with mushrooms and eat with toast.
• Make a soup by cooking the ferns in broth with sautéed onions and adding some cream at the end.

 

For more inspired recipes, find your copy of Always in Season here.

Erik Ofgang Picks 5 New England Craft Drinks to Try This St. Patrick’s Day

Skip the green beer and try something new this year, suggests Erik Ofgang, liquid-vacation expert and author of Buzzed.

Erik Ofgang knows his beer. "My father was a craft beer lover, and I've been exposed to that world all my life," he explains. The multi-talented author, magician, and musician has spent years traveling the east coast with his Celtic roots band, MacTalla Mór, which has given him ample opportunities to celebrate the modern American rituals of St. Patrick's Day. But even this die-hard beer drinker is eschewing all "green beer and anything dyed green" just for the day.

"Traveling with MacTalla Mor and as a food and drink writer I’ve had the chance to sip, sample, and occasionally guzzle more than my fair of share of St. Patrick’s Day worthy libations," he says. "Now, I try and stick to the high-quality stuff, drinks made with passion, care and skill." 

This year, instead of heading to your local dive for cheap beer and bad music, Ofgang suggests you take a page out of his book and try one of the five beverages below. Here, he has gathered a collection of drinks that certainly have alcohol in them, but like St. Patrick’s Day itself, "they're about far more than just the booze."

1. Whiskey, Whiskey

Since ancient times some form of distillation has existed. In its earliest form, whiskey, which was known as aqua vitae (Latin for “water of life”), was used medicinally. It wasn’t until about the 15th century that the Celts of Ireland and Scotland began consuming whiskey for pleasure not medicine. Ever since, Irish Whiskey has been a part of St. Patrick’s Day celebrations far beyond the Erin shore.

Today many artisans in New England are carrying on the practice of the ancient Celts and producing their own water of life. Dozens of great whiskeys are being produced across the region — one favorite is Gunpowder Rye Whiskey from New England Distilling in Portland, Maine. This spicy rye has a toasted malt flavor and big barrel character, perfect for raising a glass and shouting, “Slainte!” Ned Wight, the distillery’s owner, was the original head brewer at Allagash. He brings the same commitment to craft and flavor that helped make Allagash a giant in the New England beer world.

 

Courtesy of New England Distilling

2. Nitro Stout

Guinness is far and away the most popular St. Patrick’s Day drink. The company is also a pioneer of one of the major trends in the craft-brewing world—nitro. Short for nitrogen, nitro is an alternative carbonation method to the standard carbon dioxide method. Using nitro results in a smoother, creamier product and when the beer is properly poured from the draft line it creates the cascading effect that Guinness is known for. Of late, nitro powered stouts and even pale ales and IPAs have become more common in craft circles. A great example of a Guinness-like nitro stout is the Nitro Coffee Milk Stout made by Oxford Connecticut’s Black Hog Brewing Co. This rich, creamy stout has a hearty roasted coffee flavor and silky texture and has a giant almost two-inch, bright white, fluffy head. Unfortunately, at this point the stout is primarily available draft-only in Connecticut. For those outside the Nutmeg State looking to enjoy some Guinness-like nitro stout, check out the Milk Stout Nitro from Left Hand Brewing Co., or Old Chub Nitro from Oskar Blues, a personal favorite when it comes to American nitro-stouts.

3. Grab a Gruit

One ancient Celtic drinking tradition that has gone out of style is Gruit. The drink is a type of medieval almost-beer that is flavored by a variety of herbs rather than hops. By some accounts it was once the most popular brew in Ireland but was gradually replaced by hopped beers possibly as a result of Protestant pressure on Catholic drinking habits (that last part is subject to debate). However, those looking to honor Ireland’s authentic drinking traditions this St. Patrick’s Day need not despair. Earth Eagle Brewings in Portsmouth, New Hampshire offers a rotating lineup of great gruits. These instantly different and memorable brews taste like hard cider — they have an almost-but-not-quite-beer taste, but there that's where the similarities to anything non-gruit end. Many are sour and full of flavors people either love or hate. I fall into the former category and have bought a growler of nearly every gruit I’ve tried at Earth Eagle.

 

The brewers at work in Portsmouth's Earth Eagle Brewings

4. Coffee and cream liqueur

In general St. Patrick’s Day is more of a bar holiday than a coffeehouse one, but it doesn’t have to be. With New England’s wonderful coffee culture it would be a shame to leave my favorite caffeinated beverage off the list. From Caffé Kilim in Portsmouth, NH, to the Speckled Ax in Portland, ME, or Source Coffeehouse in Bridgeport, CT, and dozens of others, New England has no shortage of great coffeehouses. So, order a cup of your favorite coffee to go and then add a wee bit of Irish spirit to it courtesy of your favorite Irish cream liqueur.

Some Irish coffee drinks get complicated by requiring the mixing of coffee, cream liqueur, Irish whiskeys, and whipped cream, but I’m not much of a mixologist so I like to keep it simple. I use the cream liqueur in place of milk or cream. Because most liqueurs are sweeter than milk, this adds extra sweetness to the coffee and makes for a mellow, slow sipping drink.

As for the cream liqueur itself, Baileys Original Irish Cream is the best known and one of the best tasting on the market; however, my personal favorite is Kerrygold Irish Cream Liqueur. Kerrygold is better known for its dairy products including its smooth and creamy butter, and this liqueur features aged Irish whiskey and cream made from the company’s grass-fed Irish cows.

5. Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder

The craft beverage movement in New England and the U.S. is all about creating new traditions, so although it’s not caught on yet, I can’t think of a better way to toast the wearing of the green than with the legendary green drink absinthe, a.k.a. the Green Fairy. Banned in America for almost 100 years it became legal in 2007, due to a relaxing of existing laws. That opened the door for bartenders to start reincorporating absinthe into classic drinks (like The Sazerac) and for micro-distilleries to start making it again. My favorite American absinthe is called Meadow of Love. It’s made by New York’s Delaware Phoenix Distillery (even though it’s made by a non-New England distillery, this absinthe is so good you won’t care). The drink is flavored by rich botanicals such as anise, fennel, hyssop, lemon, violet and wormwood. With a 68 percent ABV (136 proof) this is drink that will get you to impromptu-Irish jig dancing levels in record time. 

Slainte! 

To pre-order your copy of "Buzzed," visit here.  

Friday Finds

We love seeing the pages of old books redesigned in new ways. Former bookbinder Cecelia Levy transforms pages into works of art. If you’d like to see more like this, our Pinterest page features some of our favorite book-inspired designs.

Speaking of beautiful art, a documentary on Vincent Van Gogh will be the first feature film that is made up entirely of paintings.

Dr. Seuss’ birthday is celebrated throughout the month of March. This interesting piece from PBS.org details 8 things you might not know about the beloved writer and illustrator.

This week marked #WorldBookDay. Here’s 40 Books to Read Before You Die from The Independent.

In local news, the city of Portland and the Army Corps of Engineers are partnering to restore Fort Gorges, a Civil War-era site located on an island off the Casco Bay.

We are always snacking here at the office, so this article on the science behind the 3 p.m. snack slump piqued our interest.

Have a great weekend!

[Artwork: "Yellow Books" by Vincent Van Gogh] 

Maple-Roasted Brussels Sprouts

Our series featuring favorite staff recipes continues this month. Former intern, Elise Ozarowski, shares her top pick from "Always in Season" by Elise Richer:

It's December, and there are tempting treats everywhere! To balance the scales, I decided to try a savory recipe for Maple-Roasted Brussels Sprouts from "Always In Season." The recipe was unbelievably easy to follow, even for a recent college grad who is accustomed to cooking ramen noodles. 

I washed and halved the Brussel sprouts, placed them in a Zip-Lock bag, and marinated them for an hour in the maple syrup, Dijon mustard and olive oil mixture for extra flavor. While the vegetables marinated, I preheated the oven to 425 degrees and found a generously sized rimmed pan for baking. Once the Brussels sprouts were done marinating, I spread them on the pan and poured the remaining mixture in the bag over the Brussels sprouts. The more flavor, the better! 

The sprouts were crispy and perfectly roasted. I loved the pairing of flavors and the addition of lemon juice at the end (I used half a lemon). I made this side dish for my parents, and they were impressed. Their compliments could have come from the fact that I was making them a real dinner, complete with salmon and vegetable rice, but something tells me this delicious side dish made them especially proud!

Ingredients:

1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, washed and trimmed
3 Tbsp maple syrup, plus more to serve)
1 Tbsp prepared mustard (Dijon or whole grain)
2 Tbsp olive oil 
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
lemon juice, to taste 


Prep:

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Halve any Brussels sprouts larger than 1 1/2 inches in diameter.

Place 3 tablespoons maple syrup, mustard, olive oil, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl and whisk together. Add sprouts to bowl and toss to coat. Pour coated sprouts onto a rimmed sheet pan, using a spatula to scrape out any extra sauce.

Roast for 15 minutes, stir, and roast another 10 minutes. Check to see if sprouts are done. They should be browned in spots and tender to the bite. Cook longer if necessary. Put cooked sprouts in a serving bowl and toss with a drizzle of maple syrup and lemon juice. Salt to taste.

Serves 4. 

 

Staff Picks: Recipes

As the holiday season begins, we're always looking for new foods to bring, serve, and enjoy. Islandport Press offers a wide range of cookbooks, and our staff members have been testing recipes from them to bring you a new miniseries called Staff Picks: Recipes. Children's book editor Melissa Kim kicks off the fun with some easy-to-make cookies:

I chose a recipe from Favorite Island Recipes, a cookbook written by members and friends of the Frenchboro Congregational Church on Frenchboro Island. The recipes in this practical cookbook are told in a no-nonsense, no frills way, island style. Some call on ingredients from the coast, like goose grass, rose hips, lobsters, and mussels, but others have ingredients that can be found in any kitchen pantry. 

These cookies were a huge hit with my 11-year-old son who said, "First you taste the chocolate, then you taste the pumpkin. They're good," he said. After his second cookie, he said "They're really good. Actually, they're great!"

A few notes: I greased the pan lightly before baking. The batter is very moist. This recipe made almost four dozen cookies. Best part: You can make the recipe in one bowl. 

Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cookies

By Shirley Eaton

1 egg

1 C sugar

1/2 C oil

1 C pumpkin

1 tsp vanilla

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp cinnamon

1 tsp baking soda

1/2 tsp salt

2 C flour

1 tsp milk

1 1/2 cups chocolate chips

Mix together egg, sugar, oil, pumpkin, vanilla, baking powder, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt. Then add flour, milk, and chocolate chips. Bake 8 - 10 minutes at 375 degrees. 

 

 

New Kate Christensen Book to Launch in 2015

We're thrilled to include author and novelist Kate Christensen to our growing list of writers. Kate's nonfiction book—to be released in 2015—is titled How to Cook a Moose. The book will explore Maine's food lore and culture, and describe through anecdotes and recipes the skills needed to forage, hunt, fish, garden, collect, and prepare food in the far reaches of the state. 

Senior editor Genevieve Morgan signed Christensen for the project. The two met at the author's Portland home to discuss the benefits of working with a small, local press. According to Morgan, Christensen has wanted to write How to Cook a Moose ever since she moved to Maine in 2011.

Christensen, who is also a talented cook, made Morgan a dish called Harissa Haddock. The dish combined a classic Maine staple with a Middle Eastern spice. The result, says Morgan, was delicious. How to Cook a Moose will feature dishes much like this one, which combine traditional Maine foods with a modern twist.

We're all looking forward to working with Christensen, and we can't wait to see the book in print! 

Read more about the signing with Christensen here. To find a recipe inspired by Kate's Harissa Haddock, visit Kate's blog here. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Raspberry Oat Squares

My family was recently invited to a cookie and cocktail party, which is such a genius theme! I turned to Elise Richer's Always in Season cookbook for ideas, and decided to try her Raspberry Oat Squares. Like all of Elise's recipes, the oat squares are easy to make and require only a few simple ingredients. 

The crust, made of flour, butter, and oats, can be made in minutes. Two cups of this mixture is pressed firmly into the bottom of an 8 x 8 pan. The rest of the mixture is used to create a satisyfing topping with brown sugar, vanilla, and cinnamon.  

Another highlight of this recipe is that you can use fresh or frozen raspberries for the filling. If you decide to go with frozen berries, like me, use a little extra cornstarch. The berries look so pretty mixed with sugar and a little lemon. 

The bars were quick to prepare and so delicious. They made a festive addition to a beautiful table of cookies. And for a cookie fan like me, the party was so much fun. We left with a 2 lb. box of homemade treats. What could be better?

 Find the full recipe here.

Tomato Pie with Spinach & Grape Salad

While the season of abundant tomatoes is nearing its end in New England, a savory pie is so appealing when the cold weather sets in. With this idea in mind, I tried the classic tomato pie from Elise Richer's Always in Season cookbook. I used a store bought crust for ease, but if the spirit moves you, Elise's flaky Tart shell recipe—made with buttermilk—is well worth the effort.

Once you bake the crust at 425 for 12 minutes, you're ready to start prepping the pie. There are so many good things in this simple dish. I used Panko breadcrumbs to line the base of the crust and soak up any tomato juices. Monterey Jack and sharp Cheddar cheeses with a hint of hot sauce make for a delicious topping. The result? A warm and bubbly tomato pie packed with flavor.

 

I love a salad to balance out a savory pie like this one. Elise's Spinach & Grape Salad with toasted walnuts is a perfect accompaniment. The recipe calls for Concord grapes, but any variety will do. For the dressing, use a 1/2 teaspoon of smoked paprika if you like heat. If not, scale the paprika back to 1/4 teaspoon and use a little less black pepper. This is a gorgeous salad and it is so easy to customize to your tastes.

Like what you see? Find the full recipe for the Tomato Pie here. For the Spinach & Grape Salad recipe visit here. 

FMI on cookbook author Elise Richer, find her on Facebook or on her Always in Season blog.